Los Huemules Reserve, Argentina
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Laguna Azul Los Huemules Reserve, Argentina |
March 25, 2012
The weather is fine again today. The bus picks us up at our El
Chaltén hostel at 8 o'clock. Its front three seats are
loaded with the heavy-duty backpacking gear of a guide and four others
for an extended trek through the Andean Ice Field. After picking up a few
more passengers, the driver cannot even see behind himself through the luggage.
While proceeding northward on the unpaved road at about 15 miles
per hour, the gorgeous young woman in the chair opposite me offers a
piping-hot cup of tea with honey; how could I refuse? The ice
trekkers are the first to disembark at their trailhead; the next stop is ours
alone. Most passengers are headed farther up; but our plan is to incur not
one hike, but two, as suggested by one of the guides back at Torres del Paine.
View from the bus stop
A little winding road leads us a private reserve with very well-kept
grounds. We are expecting to pay a fee, but nobody is home.
The museum entrance is open, however; so we look around a bit. It is
interesting that a place with antiques and collectibles would be left unlocked;
such a thing would be unthinkable in California.
Named after a small, endangered deer
We are the only ones here
Wood carving in the museum lobby
Still no one has shown up, however; so we elect to ignore the sign mandating us to be greeted before doing anything else, and head for the trail.
Getting started
One at a time on this bridge
Just past the fun bridge that swings and bounces around during a crossing, we spot a number of interesting big black woodpeckers with red heads. I wish that I had been able to get more photos of these guys.
A male Magellanic Woodpecker
Actually, I did get a good shot of sorts, back at the city park in El Calafate:
While stopped to enjoy the wildlife, David starts telling me a joke. As he is talking, a swarm of gnats violates our air space; but I must wait until the story is concluded before moving on.
Almost there
Laguna Azul
This is, of course, a different Laguna Azul than the one we visited last week. Perhaps "Blue Lake" is as common in Patagonia as is "Silver Lake" in the Sierra.
For three weeks David and I have been gazing at glacially fed streams
and lakes everywhere. Those turquoise-colored waters are the
stuff of great postcard photographs, but I have been longing to see some
clear water for a change. I just found it.
At last! Water I can see into!
The map shows a trail continuing around the back side of the lake, and we have plenty of time yet. The route, although occasionally flagged, is relatively unmaintained, sometimes only a few inches wide, and precariously situated in places. I like it.
Finding an open spot on the shore, we stop to bask in the sunlight for a while. Reclining on a patch of thick duff, I realize that this is the most comfortable I have been since leaving home.
At the back end of the lake
The next bus won't wait for us, however; so we must start back.
At the outlet of Laguna Azul
More clear water
Nice rocks
Making sure that we don't get lost
The return route is dispatched in fairly short order. This time, a nice woman answers the bell at the museum, and comes over from the nearby residence to take our money.
The reserve's administration building reappears
§: What a pleasant outing this was! And we had the place all to
ourselves. Thanks, Nico, for recommending it. Now we must catch the next
bus for the second half of today's itinerary.
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| Solitude |  |
