Sequoia National Park
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Monarch Lakes, Mineral King Sequoia National Park |
“Water and air, the two essential fluids on which all life depends,
have become global garbage cans.” – Jacques-Yves Cousteau
September 10, 2013
There are several options here ⇔
For my first-ever visit to Mineral King, I opt to head for the Monarch Lakes. Most of the climbing is done at the start.
Those guys are using the trail also
Other trailheads in Mineral King Valley
Heading up the canyon
There isn't much water in the creek. In fact, I can see no evidence of residual snow anywhere in the mountains above me.
A spring feeds Monarch Creek
Three years ago I scaled the unique and special Moro Rock just to the north (Hike #90), only to find all the views obliterated by smog from the San Joaquin Valley. I expect no better today, but there might be something worth seeing up close.
The air quality is so poor
The gradient is relentless, but not too steep. The many switchbacks serve to make the going easier.
After a 2,200-foot climb, a trail junction offers the option to head over to the Chihuahua Mine and Crystal Lakes. Sticking with the original plan, only now do some interesting views present themselves.
I am looking forward to this lengthy but scenic traverse
Halfway there
Crossing some scree
Sawtooth Peak, 12343'
Around the far corner is the first lake; its stunning setting takes me somewhat by surprise, for I had seen nothing particularly noteworthy up to now.
Lower Monarch Lake
The meeting of the red rocks with the granite wall has a profound visual effect. This place is exquisite!
This is why I go hiking
A couple of other hikers have arrived. I backtrack a bit so as to try to engage them in conversation. Hailing from Austin, Texas, the pair is seriously contemplating a permanent move to California. Their original thought was to relocate to the southern state, but that plan is no longer in favor. One look at the sky tells why.
James and Kristin
Unbeknownst to the others, another lake lies just above us just behind this one. We set off together up the use trail, but the younger folks' lungs soon leave me behind.
Upper Monarch Lake and Mineral Peak, 11615'
Upon arrival, I see that Kristin and James already are hanging out on the beach. I join them and treat my feet to a dunk in the water as Kristin treats me to a homemade cookie.
On the far cliff is a well-defined 'chute,' which can be utilized to
cross-country over to the Crystal Lakes for a nice semi-loop.
I had considered that option; but the prospect of an extra 600 feet of
climbing and 2+ miles of walking are putting me off.
Today's trek will be enough work as it is.
This lake is four times the size of the other one, but is not as pretty
There is but one flower variety in evidence up here — a hardy succulent.
Butterballs (Cushion Buckwheat)
I start back down, fully expecting the others to catch up and pass me later on.
Lower Monarch Lake is 250 feet below
As I stop for photographs, two oriental gentlemen are scrambling their
way up. That fact is interesting in itself, because I simply don't
see many far-easterners on Sierra Trails. Even more noteworthy
is the second guy's headgear, which conceals his entire face.
I don't know how he can see a thing.
No bugs will bite him in the nose
At the far end of the lower lake, an adult foursome has arrived. One of them is carrying a little baby, and I can hear it chattering. By the time I get over there, though, the group already has packed up and departed.
Now I see them...
...now I don't
A storm is brewing above Crystal Lake
Farewell to one of the nicest places I ever have visited
Monarch Creek is virtually dry
Rougher going
Easier going
Empire Mountain, 11550'
Presently I overtake the young couple that I had spotted at lakeside.
On the promise that I will make their infant son Carter world-famous
by publishing his photo on the Internet, we get him to pose nicely.
Carter is having a good time
Carter's grandparents also make their appearance, and James and Kristin
show up shortly afterwards. Soon the two oriental dudes come by as
well. The one without the headdress volunteers that his companion is
the "old man of the trail" at age 70; but I must correct him,
because I am a year older. I am thoroughly enjoying this informal
party among four groups of total strangers.
The end is in sight
The mountains are barely in sight
The trailhead still is a thousand feet below, and the sky is threatening. Stopping just long enough for a photo of the local wildlife, I make it back to the car just as the raindrops begin to fall.
Hello
§: Today I had some great interaction with other hikers, and the
Monarch Lakes were quite beautiful. I have awarded this walk the highest
rating possible under the circumstances.
No hike of mine, however, can be that highly regarded when the air quality
is compromised. The San Joaquin Valley might well feature the greatest
per-acre agricultural production in the world; but the environment is
truly disgusting, and all the pollution blows eastward into the park.
Good hikes can be had here at Mineral King; but if your goal is to visit
a pristine environment, you'll not find one in Sequoia —
at least, not on this side of the mountains. Those days are gone,
never to return until long after World War III.
| Scenery |  |
| Difficulty |  |
| Personality |  |
| Solitude | |
