Ted's Hiking World Dipsea Trail
Mount Tamalpais State Park

October 11, 2020

Having received email instructions to show up at a friend's house for a trip over to hike the Marin County Dipsea Trail, I learn at that time that there actually will be eight of us involved.  Besides my frequent companions Eileen, Cindy, and Lori, I will have the company of no fewer than four new acquaintances — locals Jaff, Kathryn and Sima, plus Edith, a San Rafael resident.

By about 8:30 a.m., we are at the trailhead, which happens to be a neighborhood in the progressive little community of Mill Valley.  Although I have hiked a portion of the Dipsea Trail on two prior occasions, I have little idea of what to expect today.  Because I nearly always am the group leader, today I will happily let someone else do all the planning; in fact, I have not even bothered to prepare a map of this area.

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This walk will start at the usual place

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Starting out

The first order of business is four-tenths of a mile of stairs to climb, for this town is built on the side of a steep hill.

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There are three sections comprising many hundreds of steps

Roadways must be crossed in several places, but there always is a little sign pointing the way.

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The preferred route is off the highway

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The annual Dipsea Race, 115 years old, is America's oldest trail-running race.  It also is frequently touted as America's second-oldest foot race, which it is not (see Addendum).  The event is considered by the locals to be Marin County's 'Super Bowl'.  Normally held in June, this year's competition was cancelled due to the coronavirus.

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As usual, I am lagging behind for picture-taking

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That's a new one

Presently we must cross a busy highway at a point that would prove key to our outing later.

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The trail morphs into Panoramic Drive briefly

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We seem to be headed for Muir Woods

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One of the most scenic sections
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One of the least scenic sections

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We three old-timers are lagging a bit

Yep.  Here's the entrance to Muir Woods, but I don't know how much of the forest we actually will see.

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Some of the trail specs on the signpost are wrong (see Addendum)

Well, it seems that our trail will bypass the monument almost totally; that's too bad, because I would love to visit it again, and I will.

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The Redwook Creek Bridge usually is removed during the winter

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Western Swordfern

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They opt for the road instead of the trail.  Pshaw

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The redwoods are hardy souls

And at the base of the tall trees is another group of hardy souls:

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Edith, Sima, Eileen, Ted, Cindy, Kathryn, Jaff

Only Photographer Lori is missing from the picture.

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I recognize this sign

Previously, I looped over here from Pantoll Station, then back through Steep Ravine; so from here, I will be duplicating a mile or so of trail.

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The top of Cardiac Hill hosts our first ocean vistas.

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Southward view

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Looking west out to sea

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San Francisco skyline

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View To the east is Angel Island in the bay

The going should be pretty much all downhill from here — or so Jaff says.

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Anxious to visit the 'Rainforest', which isn't a real rainforest

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Plunging into Steep Ravine

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An unexpected traffic jam

Numerous injuries accrue in this section during a typical race.

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The Webb Creek Bridge

On my two prior visits, I turned right here and headed up Secret Ravine; so once again, I am entering new territory.

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After a final uphill push called The Insult, our destination finally comes into view.

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Stinson Beach awaits us

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It's nearly a mile farther

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Beautiful going

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Almost there

We're down!  The beach remains out of sight, however.

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Traipsing through town

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Stinson Beach

There being no shady spot for a lunch break, we all plop down in the warm sand.  After snacking, a decision must be made.  Apparently a couple of hardier souls are willing to walk back — another eight miles and more than 2,000 feet of additional climbing; but most are not enamored of those prospects.  This trek already has equaled or exceeded the rigors of a typical outing, and some were struggling a bit as it was.

In any case, being able to get back before dark would be highly unlikely; so it is agreed to opt for Plan-B — the local shuttle bus back to Mill Valley.  This means that we now can afford the luxury of a stroll down the beach itself, so off we go.

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Bare feet are in order now, which is pretty unusual on a hike

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Those gulls all are shades of grey.  What happened to the white ones?

The amazing part of that scene, though, is that pretty much all of the birds are facing in the same direction!  Go figure.

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Which way will we go?

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It's the old fetch-the-ball game

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Can you guess what this is?

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Presumably just a piece of seaweed

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Eileen's footprint

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Here's the solution to the quiz:

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A backlit crab shell

Okay, the beach walk is over.  Having a bus to catch, we all make it out to the highway with just a few minutes to spare.  Life seems good.

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Three sailers are touring the beach area

At this point, however, the wheels begin to come off of our day.  When the shuttle arrives, we are informed that occupancy is severly limited because of a COVID-19 restriction.  Not only will none of us be able to board at this time, but even the next bus an hour from now will not be able to fit us all in.  Bummer!

So it's time for Plan-C.  We'll summon an UBER taxi to take at least two drivers over the hill, who could then return and fetch the rest of us.  This probably would take a couple of hours, but that seems to be the choice.  An UBER cab is contacted online, and a little clock shows that it is on the way; but then the scheduled time comes and goes, and no cab appears.

Just as all seems lost, however, a miracle occurs.  As a shiny blue pickup with four occupants passes in front of us, one of the group humorously calls out, "How about a ride?"  And the truck pulls over and stops!  It seems that the folks are tourists, but that they are amenable to helping us.  We have been saved!

After explaining what is needed, Lori climbs into the cab, and the other seven of us cram into the bed of the truck, which contains nothing but a fishing pole; and off we go up the steep and curvy Panoramic Drive.

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Starting the ride

The young Air Force soldier at the wheel proves to be a conscientious driver, pulling off at numerous turnouts to let faster traffic pass.  Many miles later, at Jaff's instruction we stop where the Dipsea Trail crosses the road.  We will finish the trek from here.  Plan-D has proved a total success.

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End of the ride

After giving the good folks from back east a hundred dollars for their accommodation, we happily set off down the remaining mile and a half of trail.

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Halloween is coming

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The only flowers around today are in people's yards, such as this Mexican Bush Sage

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Ice Plants are a real treat

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Woodland Stonecrop
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Dinnerplate Plant

Those flowers were not noticed earlier, however, so we must be on a new route.  Catching up with three others, Lori mentions that she hopes that we didn't "miss the stairs".  It is clear to me that we have done just that, and a passing walker confirms that the Dipsea Trail is about three-tenths of a mile back; so we retrace that distance and locate the stairway.  Having already planned to do so, I start counting the steps for myself.

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Great Bougainvillea

Although these neighborhood homes have a high value, many feature nostalgic hippie-style decorations of times past.

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Mosaic on a fence

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Trailside doorways

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Near the bottom of the route


After this amazing and fortuitous series of events, it seems like a good plan to unwind at a nearby restaurant before the upcoming 90-mile drive home.

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Local regulations continue to haunt us, however; for our group is compelled to use two different tables.

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That's the head table; Jaff and I have our own


§: Well, that was one remarkable day, and we have some great stories to tell as a result.  An interesting feature of this trek was that it traversed three different parklands — Mount Tamalpais State Park, Muir Woods National Monument, and the Golden Gate National Recreation Area.  That variety could be a record of some kind.

Oddly enough, prior to a second postponement, the 2020 running of the race had been moved up from mid-June to — you guessed it — October 11th.  That's today; and that fact might have accounted for the unusually heavy traffic on the trail.  Perhaps some of the others were unaware of the cancellation and had intended to be spectators.

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Flowers *

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ADDENDUM

OLDEST RACES: The first Dipsea was held in 1905, pre-dated by the Boston Marathon in 1897; yet the longest continuous such event of them all is the original Thankgiving Turkey Trot in Buffalo, New York, which has run every year since 1896!

STAIR COUNT: Totals range from 672 to 688, depending upon which article one reads.  My own count was 316 +234 +150 = 700 actual steps, plus some inclined sidewalks and roadways.  This total was verified nine months later, so it's gotta be true.

Go here to view some great footage of the event's remarkable history:  <dipsea.org>

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