Malakoff Diggins State Historical Park
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Humbug Trail Malakoff Diggins State Historical Park |
April 11, 2024
Despite having lived just twelve miles from today's trailhead for six years, I never managed to venture over to it. I really don't know just what to expect from this one.
The shortest access is by way of a back road that is unpaved for half the way,
including some bumps and potholes, but is passable by most passenger cars in good
weather. The officially recommended yet also partially unpaved route is
14 miles longer.
This place has a fascinating history (See Addendum)
There is just one other vehicle at the trailhead, so the trail won't be crowded.
Into the forest
It seems that I'll be in a steep-walled canyon for the duration.
This contaminated pool is fenced off
It also seems likely that I'll be hounded by bugs all day. I apply a repellent wipe; but I suspect it won't help much, for the bugs appear to be gnats or flies, not mosquitoes.
First crossing
Banana slugs are ugly as sin but totally harmless
Second crossing
Not unexpectedly, there are few flowers around; forested canyons do suppress sunlight,
Sierra Stickseed
Pacific Bleeding Heart
Humbug Creek
Lots of moss
A mini-waterfall is directly below. Shortly ahead is a much bigger cataract, fully hidden in the shade. I'll postpone any photographs until the return leg, when the canyon should be lit up much better.
There even is a section of cable handhold here
There has been some rough and tricky going already, and the fact that my poor knees seem to have aged markedly just in the last year isn't helping. Recently, it even has become significanly more difficult just getting up off the ground. I really need to start trying some knee sleeves or possibly braces, and see how well they actually work.
This resolve doesn't help me today, however, because right now there is a high, wet rock to scramble down. Once I negotiate it using five points of contact, I can check out the evidence of human activity just ahead.
A kayaker, perhaps? No, that seems unlikely
Aha! They have selected the most scenic spot encountered thus far
The woman waves and smiles at me, and I wave back.
Trail maintenance is overdue here
Chocolate Lily
Small Baby Blue Eyes
The last three-quarters of a mile rates to be steeper, and it is
My route ends as I intersect the lesser-used South Yuba National Trail.
Looking west down the South Yuba River
My most enjoyable swimming ever has been on this river, some miles downstream.
A couple of months from now, when the streamflow is reduced and the water is warm,
a skinny-dip in the slowly flowing, crystal-clear stream can be an
exquisitely rewarding experience.
Lunch on the South Yuba Trail
The flies mercifully leave me alone for the duration of my snack. Go figure. I am unable to make a phone call home, though.
A path leads down to the water's edge, but I'll pass on that today
Okay. Today's work is somewhat less than half-finished. Although it
is a thousand-foot climb out of here, the rough sections will be easier to
handle in the uphill direction.
Starting back
Indian Pink
Poison Oak
I pass by the picnicking couple unnoticed, and perhaps that's just as well.
She has ditched her bikini
Now there is some sunlight
The nicest scene of the day
Rough going. A slip-up could prove costly
Although it doesn't look like a big deal from the picture, dealing with that big slippery rock proves more difficult than expected; but now I can relax a bit. The problem isn't so much the actual physical challenge as it is the extra caution required to avoid any action that could strain certain body parts that no longer can be fully trusted.
The other falls are elusive
A bit farther on, my patience is rewarded; for there is sunlight everywhere. Most the the best views remain at least partially obstructed, however.
The best available angle
Splash pool
From here, the only remaining feature of interest is this flower:
Goosefoot Violet
§: Well, I survived it, and it's only 82 degrees! There were some
good photo-ops of the creek action, but others were stymied by the constricted nature
of the canyon. Also, being incessantly bothered by bugs automatically reduces
the enjoyment of this or any hike. At least the New Zealand sand flies left me
alone while I was moving, but not the guys here; today there was virtually no letup.
Visiting later in the season probably would help, but by then it would be way too hot
to hike around here at all.
Admittedly, none of the mentioned difficulties on this trail would tend to bother a fit younger person, but I haven't been one of those since I turned 78.
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ADDENDUM
The North Bloomfield Mining and Gravel Company produced more than
$460 million worth of gold (in today's dollars) over a 44-year timespan
beginning in 1857. Giant brass nozzles sprayed powerful streams of water on the
clay hillside, reducing it to mud and saving a lot of time and manpower. After
sifting out the gold, waste materials were funneled down into the Yuba River, which
ran to the Feather River and then to the Sacramento River.
All the mud and debris raised water levels considerably, causing extensive clutter
and damage all the way to San Francisco Bay. Finally, the nation's first-ever
environmental legislation was enacted to put a stop to the practice; after another
fifteen years, the mine finally was closed.
This operation was unique in another way as well. Because the water was
supplied by flumes and chutes from Bowman Lake, 20 miles to the east and 2,300 feet
higher, the world's first-ever long-distance telephone line was installed
between the two sites to help manage operations.
Finally, the area was acquired by the state in 1965, and reclamation efforts are ongoing. A nice little museum details the history of the park.
